Follow us on Facebook Follow us on Twitter Watch us on YouTube
Register
Page 1 of 7 1234567 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 134
  1. #1

    KRAWLER build thread

    I'm quickly realizing I don't have the audience I want on another forum I spend a lot of time on, so I think it's about time I move my build thread over here where I belong.

    So here's the quicky specs:

    2007 Rubi 2 door
    4 linked early 80's 14 bolt rear with 3/4 ton brake conversion, 5.38's, grizzly, custom long arm
    3 linked '79 kingpin D60 front with 3/4 ton brake conversion, 5.38's, Eaton E-locker, custom long arm, custom steering linkage
    14" RK emulsion coil overs with FOA coils on all 4 corners, rear is outboard frenched into frame 200/300 coils rear, 250/300 coils front
    FOA 2"x2" bump stops
    PSC hydro assist steering
    Custom fuel cell, stock sending unit
    41.5x13.5x17 PBR's
    17" spyderlocks with monster valves
    11" rear stretch
    4-5" front stretch
    custom corners with inlaid LED's and fit body curves
    full custom cage (soon) the cage will be through the body to rubber control arm mounts, go alongside the dash (sold my doors, so I can avoid going fully through the dash), and will house the speakers so I can keep my sound.
    custom skids (soon) thinking aluminum with plastic sheet
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Mokos; 01-05-2015 at 07:51 PM.
    Krawl Daddy Offroad

  2. #2
    So, one thing I could use some thoughts on is my steering setup.

    Right now I have high steer arms with a hydro assist setup, so cross link drag link and tie rod on the high steer arm. my up travel is very limited to about 3" with everything on top of the arms, so I am thinking to get the artec double sheer arms with knuckle bolt and mount the tie rod about and drag link on there instead. This will give me about 5" up travel and 9" droop. my concern with the artec arms is diff cover/tie rod clearance. Anyone running these arms know how the toe rod clears the diff cover? do I need to run offset heim joints or something?

    Also, with the drag link moving to the high steer arm, it makes it a lot longer than the track bar. I was thinking to move the track bar mount to the C, figure out another bump stop location, and move my frame side track bar mount outboard as much as possible to maximize the track bar length to avoid bump steer. anyone have a setup like this?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #3
    another thing I'm trying to decide is if I need to move my steering box and frame side track bar mounting location or not. with the track bar mounted on top of the axle on the axle end, the drag link is almost perpendicular to the frame with a 5" stretch up front. I think it should work like this without an issue, right?

    If I moved the frame side track bar mount and the steering box about 2.5" forward, the axle side track bar mount and drag link would be about perfectly aligned.

  4. #4
    Im looking forward to see what you do


    Sent from the ether
    Hands up, Don't shoot!

  5. #5

    KRAWLER build thread

    Looking forward to the build. I had the same issues with all the front crap. so I had enough and double triangulated the front with full hydro steering. now I have all the room in the world.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Yogurt View Post
    Looking forward to the build. I had the same issues with all the front crap. so I had enough and double triangulated the front with full hydro steering. now I have all the room in the world.
    did you modify your oil pan for the 4 link? I was thinking to do the same thing at some point. I'll have to dig through your build thread...

  7. #7

    KRAWLER build thread

    no modifications. I'm running 16 in coilovers with 7in up and 9in down. the only part that is close is the driver side control arms at full droop are about 1/4 in from the driveshaft. but clearance is clearance no matter how small. lol

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Yogurt View Post
    no modifications. I'm running 16 in coilovers with 7in up and 9in down. the only part that is close is the driver side control arms at full droop are about 1/4 in from the driveshaft. but clearance is clearance no matter how small. lol
    do you think I could fit that setup with 14's? what were the major challenges? I guess I'm wondering why more people aren't running this setup.

  9. #9

    KRAWLER build thread

    sure I don't see why not. clearance gets closer at longer droop. because its a full custom setup and it needs to be placed just right for it to work. main reason I believe is patients and lack of is why. also people are scared of full hydro. you can also run a track bar with full hydro like Abendx did.
    the advantage with full hydro is getting rid of all that steering nightmare.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Yogurt View Post
    sure I don't see why not. clearance gets closer at longer droop. because its a full custom setup and it needs to be placed just right for it to work. main reason I believe is patients and lack of is why. also people are scared of full hydro. you can also run a track bar with full hydro like Abendx did.
    the advantage with full hydro is getting rid of all that steering nightmare.
    For now, I was thinking maybe 4 link with hydro assist? Not going to full hydro just yet…

  11. #11
    Who is your daddy? dr.dirty's Avatar
    Date Committed
    Nov 2011
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    4,553
    Man between you and yogurt I might actually start liking the 2dr jk.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Mokos View Post
    For now, I was thinking maybe 4 link with hydro assist? Not going to full hydro just yet…
    You cannot run a draglink with a double triangulated 4 link. The way it cycles will bind with the draglink and track bar. You can with a normal 4 link but not triangulated.

    Sent by 6ix Offroad

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Yogurt View Post
    You cannot run a draglink with a double triangulated 4 link. The way it cycles will bind with the draglink and track bar. You can with a normal 4 link but not triangulated.

    Sent by 6ix Offroad
    I wasn't thinking to run a track bar, just drag link. Would still bind?

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Mokos View Post
    I wasn't thinking to run a track bar, just drag link. Would still bind?
    I've never had that question. well when you run a DT 4 link the axle pivots in the center of the jeep which is why you can't have a track bar. Now since the draglink is connected to the frame I would think unless the steering box is mounted in the centerline of the Jeep you will have nasty bump and flex steer. I don't know for certain but I would bet money on it.

    Sent by 6ix Offroad

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Yogurt View Post
    I've never had that question. well when you run a DT 4 link the axle pivots in the center of the jeep which is why you can't have a track bar. Now since the draglink is connected to the frame I would think unless the steering box is mounted in the centerline of the Jeep you will have nasty bump and flex steer. I don't know for certain but I would bet money on it.

    Sent by 6ix Offroad
    That makes sense. I hadn't thought through this at all honestly. You sorta planted that sead and it got me thinking. I think we should run the 4 link on heattreaters rig though. Betting it would work nice since he has full hydro.

  16. #16
    Looking forward to see what way you go. Anything can be done it just takes planning and a lot of patience. I was told you can't do DT 4 link because of the oil pan and driveshaft. Well I love proving people wrong. Haha

    Sent by 6ix Offroad

  17. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by dr.dirty View Post
    Man between you and yogurt I might actually start liking the 2dr jk.
    Don't do it Doc there are still some of us rocking the 4dr!
    Ridin 44's with mud on the doors!

  18. #18
    Pastrami Prolapse Chris Hansen's Avatar
    Date Committed
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Southern Cal
    Posts
    2,646
    I'm with the doc. Love my 4 door but there is so much cutting and stretching and stuff to do with a 2 door.

    All the best laid plans, though...

    hehe.....can't wait to see more of this build. Correcting steering issues with a simple lift and tires is one thing, but what is going on here is interesting.
    Get the hottest crime novel out now! http://amzn.to/Zovqkj or http://bit.ly/18N0Juv

  19. #19
    Haldol Shuffle MissB's Avatar
    Date Committed
    Dec 2011
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    592
    Looking good!
    IT haaaaddd to gooo! Sorry Dirty

  20. #20
    Maybe I will get to see it in person!!!
    One of those Jeep Thingies....
    And to all the Jeeps I traded, sold or laid to rest

 

 

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:20 AM.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.2
Copyright © 2018 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.
Shoutbox provided by vBShout v6.2.3 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2018 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Skin By: PurevB.com