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  • Synergy Suspension Louvered Hood Panel

    OK....so, I got a bug up my butt to do some venting on the hood. Can't afford the full heat reduction hood, but didn't want to do just small louver panels. So, I ordered the Synergy Suspension Louvered Hood Panel from Dave at Poly Performance. You can choose a powder coated version, but I opted for the bare one so I could paint it flat black. It arrived while I was down with a back injury, so I had plenty of time to paint it wilth a few careful coats of Rustoleum Automotive High Heat paint. It will withstand up to 2000 degrees of heat, which is good for us out on the trail. The raw panel will run you $125 plus tax/shipping. If you want it powdercoated, it's only another 20 bucks.




    Took off the little rubber stoppers and the tie down loop, disconnected the ground strap and the washer hose, then took the hood off and set it on a couple saw horses for measuring, drilling and cutting.



    It's actually fairly easy to set up for measuring, as there are cut-outs in the panel for the washer nozzle and the two screw holes for the tiedown loop. We taped off the edge areas to help cut down on paint peeling (if the hood pops back up a bit during drilling, you may have to grind the holes down a bit). If you want, you can start the holes with a center punch, but remember how flimsy the Jeep's hood is and do it with a very easy hand. I opted to use a drill bit with a center in the head.



    With the panel laid on the hood, take a t-square out and make sure it is centered properly, then measure from the top corners of the hood to the top corner bolt holes. Use a sharpee to mark your drill holes and the lines for the vents. Then get your t-square or large ruler/level out and plot your cutting lines.



    There are a few different cuts you can make. The first set is very minimal and won't get you much venting at all....pretty much for looks. The second option will get you more venting, but will still maintain the structural integrity of the hood. The third option is to cut long panel cuts, opening the entire section of where vents are on the louver panel. I opted for the third cut, but we gave it our own little spin, leaving some of the underhood support intact. If you want to cut out the entire support, that is also an option. You will gain back structural integrity with the stiffness of the louver panel.




    Grind/sand the edges of your cuts and hit them with some spray paint, especially if you live anywhere near me and know how much rust becomes a factor. After you grind down your drill holes, hit them with a little paint, too. The hood should still be taped off at this point, so you can just hit the areas you need with a rattle can. You'll also need to flip the hood over and use a hole saw to cut away a few sections of the under hood support so you can feed the bolts to the flange nuts.

    Flip the hood back over and lay the louver panel over the bolt holes. Insert all the bolts before tightening down any of the nuts. Once they are all in place, tighten them down, but don't crank them down like you would normally do to any of your other parts. Remember the thing about the hood being flimsy? The flange nuts will lock down with hand-tight pressure.

    Pop the hood back on the Jeep and see how it looks.



    I actually drove it home in the rain and was amused watching the heat come off the engine at stop lights. I did receive a question about having a vented hood in the rain. The vents are angled toward the windshield, so you're not going to have to worry about water dropping directly into the engine compartment.




    Photos courtesy of Joshua Nix if you wish to gain H-Res copies please contact josh@jeepasylum.com
    This article was originally published in forum thread: Synergy Suspension Louvered Hood Panel started by BCarr View original post
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